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#1 FUKUOKA
Young at Heart

IT HAS MOUNTAINS on one side, a calm bay on the other, and tree-lined rivers running through town. It has big department stores and streets full of small shops. It has a baseball team, a soccer team and an annual sumo tournament. It has a Blue Note jazz club, a Broadway-style theater -- and a well-patronized red-light district. It has an international airport and a bullet-train terminus. Best of all it doesn't have 20 million people living on top of each other. To its residents, Fukuoka is not too big, not too small, but juuust right. "You can bicycle from one end to another -- not a big city, but one with everything you want," says native Ezaki Hiroko.

Fukuoka sits on northern Kyushu, Japan's westernmost major island. The city of 1.3 million people may not have the business and cultural weight of Tokyo and Osaka, nor the history or scenery of nearby Nagasaki and Kagoshima. But what it has is a modest charm, and a willingness to try new things. Maybe because Fukuoka was for millennia a port of entry for Korean and Chinese culture. Maybe because its population is the second youngest in Japan. "Companies like to test market products here, because if it sells in Fukuoka it will sell in the rest of Japan," says Hiroshi Seto of the local Chamber of Commerce.

One new development is Canal City -- a futuristic mall with explosive fountains, trendy shops and a 13-screen movie complex -- that opened last year. The cinemas are a case in point. No Japanese company wanted to open such a large operation, so the developers turned to a U.S. outfit that had been trying to break into the tradition-bound market for years. The gamble paid off all around. Cinema attendance is up 50% citywide, the mall sparked a retail boom in traditional shopping districts, and officials and businesses from all around Japan are trooping to Fukuoka to see how the city did it.

Like most Japanese cities, Fukuoka is meticulously clean for an urban area. It is also blessed by its history as a commercial center -- there is no legacy of smokestack industries to clean up. The major problems are ever-increasing traffic, water pollution and garbage. To cope, the city is building a fourth incinerator. It is talking with neighboring districts to reduce waste water flowing into Hakata Bay, and improving its highway network. Resource conservation is a priority. Those local incinerators generate their own electricity and sell surplus to the city grid. Many retailers are joining a campaign to reduce the amount of packaging. Canal City's fountains use rainwater and waste water treated within the complex.

There is a blight on the horizon, though. An enormous artificial island is being built in the bay to house port facilities and new homes. Initial plans to start reclamation from the shoreline were revised after it was shown to threaten wetlands essential to migrating birds. Sounds "green," except the island has changed the water currents in the bay and is killing the marine habitat. "City officials won't even discuss our ideas to improve their plan to reduce the island's impact," says Ito Yoshino of the Hakata Bay Citizens Alliance. "Japan still operates for the benefit of bureaucrats and businessmen."

Still, that's changing. For the first time, the environment was made a pillar of Fukuoka's master plan, its seventh, when it was announced recently. Citizens can do their part. Neighborhood opposition to building on a wood called "The Forest of Owls" led the city to buy the plot instead. Ezaki helps run a group called Clean Fukuoka which organizes an annual spruce-up along the shores of Hakata Bay -- an exercise that enjoys strong government and corporate support. She acknowledges garbage-picking is a tame sort of activism, but points out that the campaign was little noticed by officials and businessmen when it started eight years ago. "It's only a first step," Ezaki says, "but it's a step we can build on."


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